Bali, Bathrooms and Britishness…

Pura Ulun Danu Temple on lake Brataan

Last week I wrote about my trip to Bali and overall lack of preparation. So, I thought i’d give a little backstory on why i’m traveling to ‘The Island of the Gods’ and what i’ll be doing there for two months. However, in the course of writing about this once in a lifetime opportunity, I’ve gone off on a tangent and written exclusively about how afraid of non-Western toilets I am. I’ll be sure to write a bit more about the wholesome experiences once i’m there! Enjoy…

Through uni, the opportunity came up to volunteer with the fantastic Bali Sport Foundation helping to run events and assist in multi-sport coaching for disabled athletes. I’m due to be based at BSF’s facilities in east Denpasar, a short 30 min drive by motorbike from the tourist beach-paradise of Kuta. I’ll be staying in what has been described on several occasions as ‘basic’ living quarters.

After recent discussions with previous years’ volunteers, i’ve found that ‘basic’ translates as a small single bed and use of the foundations’ two squat toilets and showers with icy cold water. This new information has filled me, a self confessed germaphobe, with a sense of terror. Squat toilets are nothing short of a nightmare for me…

I’ve faced these monstrosities once before on Peru’s Inca Trail back in 2016 and I’ll paint you a picture of how that encounter panned out for me; I step in to the toilets at the first rest stop, I battle through the initial smell to come toe to toe with the subject of my nightmares. I dug deep searching for any hidden courage, finding none, I opted to leave as soon as possible with my tail firmly between my legs. But, not before a large dose of Britishness came over me, not wanting to seem weird for loitering in a toilet for a moment, or two, before leaving, I found it completely necessary to exclaim loudly ‘fuck that’ before I stormed out of there. Thus, avoiding imaginary embarrassment by drawing as much attention as possible to the fact that I am way too precious to use those toilets. This also had the double benefit of letting our courteous, kind and polite hosts, who were quite literally breaking their backs for us by lugging tents and cooking equipment up a mountain, that I disapproved of their facilities. Overall, good thinking Tom, well done.

The incident left me emotionally scarred and popping Imodium’s like M&Ms to ensure I didn’t have to relive the encounter over the next four days. Whilst this method proved effective, i’m not convinced it will be possible for the two months in Bali without risking a serious incident. The way I see it, this leaves me with two options, suck it up, use the facilities and hope I get used to it or show no sign of growth over the three years since the Inca Trail and continue to be a little bitch. Needless to say, whilst writing this post, i’m simultaneously Googling nearby gyms and hotels with Western facilities!

This leaves the score firmly as squat toilets 1 – 0 Tom, and i’m seriously hoping a rematch isn’t on the cards.

So, I’m going to start travel writing…

It’s just under four weeks until I leave for Bali, and I, an aspiring writer, am keen to document the trip. The issue here is that I have no bloody idea where to start. I’m currently sat in my new West London apartment* attempting to fuel the creative impulse with a freshly brewed coffee and a breakfast of poached eggs, avocado and toast; all together, feeling very middle class. Lonely Planet’s ‘How to be a Travel Writer’ sits beside me with its’ screaming advice to ‘find my niche’ gnawing away at me as the key to success. So that’s become the plan, find my niche, write some excellent words about it, market my blog perfectly and become an overnight writing sensation. Then await the queue of publicists wrestling to hand me large burlap sacks with dollar signs painted on the front in exchange for traveling to exotic 5-star beachfront hotels around the globe. Simple really.

The only problem is, whilst I consider myself a relatively serious person, I’m completely incapable of writing like one. The idea of a factual, stuffy piece about Bali doesn’t inspire me at all and is hardly likely to reveal any ground-breaking information about one of the most popular holiday destinations on the planet. On top of this, the only ‘research’ I’ve done so far is read Kathryn Bonella’s ‘Snowing in Bali’ about the islands’ underground network of cocaine dealers stretching from Brazil and Peru to Indonesia via Amsterdam. This has also only accounted for one of several books I’ve read on cocaine smugglers in the last few months, apparently a grim fascination of mine. With my idea of what’s interesting being a little outside family friendly or idyllic honeymoon getaway, whatever I do end up writing probably won’t be pitched to the Bali tourist board.

Nonetheless, I will press on putting pen to paper, metaphorically of course, in the hope that what does appear is at least of some interest to you, the audience. Even if the only thing you take away from my experience is a few laughs and a general sense of how hopeless I am at traveling, despite it being a pretty serious passion of mine. To put it in to perspective, the drug smuggling research is the only actual prep I’ve done for the trip so far. I booked my flights so late that the cost increased by so much that I’m now forced to include an 8-hour stopover in Manilla just to be able to afford them, increasing my travel time to 26 hours from London Heathrow to Bali Denpasar. On top of this, my rucksack sits unwashed, and, incredibly, still a bit sticky from a mosquito repellent explosion which occurred a little over two years ago, and with Chilean currency jangling around in it. I don’t have insurance yet, am unsure whether I need to renew my jabs or purchase malaria tablets and the clothes I plan to take are still tagged and arranged neatly in shops along Oxford Street. Writing this, part of me thinks I should get my ass in gear, but the overwhelming majority of my emotions say that this all sounds like a problem for future Tom, he works better than I do anyway. I’ll make sure he documents the next stage in my ‘preparing to prepare to go to Bali’.   

*It’s a flat really, in Uxbridge, and not especially lavish, but saying West London apartment makes it sound much more boujee.

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